Rural living can sometimes mean too much time whizzing past a landscape on main roads. For those looking to slow things down and peek behind the curtain of Connemara's heartland, look no further than the Western Way.
Tracing Killary Harbour Fjord all the way to Oughterard, the Connemara leg of the 179km Western Way offers stage-by-stage launchpads inside the West's remotest interiors. Lakes, rivers, mountain slopes, bogs and valleys, old coach roads and pilgrimage tracks, are waiting to be taken in over the course of its 55km (34 miles).
All in, the trail takes around three days. For those who can't commit to the full excursion, however, the route can be enjoyed in bitesize chunks, all waymarked and offering their own texture. Out of the plunging fjord of Leenane, the trail takes you south towards the Inagh Valley and the Maumturks, before skirting Lough Corrib and finally Oughterard.
Getting there
Leenane village can be reached via bus. Bus Éireann operates regular services between Clifden and Leenane on its 423 (Westport) route, stopping at Moyard, Letterfrack, Kylemore, Recess Cross, Salruck Cross.
1. Leenane to Inagh Valley (Finnisglin, R344) — 15km
The trail head is located just west of Leenane village on the N59. Leaving the main road, a track rises parallel to the main road before skirting the mountainside with the fjord to your right. Follow the waymarks along quiet tracks and lanes through the townlands of Lettershanbally and Tooreenacoona. At the end of this road, the trail takes a sharp left along the north face of the Inagh Valley. A car park on the R344 at Finnisglin offers a bookend to this opening section of the trail.
2. Inagh Valley (Finnisglin) to Maum — 15km
Begin either at the car park at Finnisglin (R344) and walk up the L5136 and onto the trail, or else the Loigín car park further south on the L5136. Climb east towards the Mám Éan statue of St. Patrick and through the mountain pass into the Maam Valley. Enjoy the views from 259m up, before descending into the valley and along a long bog trail until Maam Bridge.
3. Maum to Oughterard — 24km
Walking south along the R336, you'll pass Quiet Man Cottage before the road climbs and views open up. At Lough Manwee, the Western Way peels off to the left and on to a lengthy stretch of boardwalk through forestry and bog, rivers and streams. You'll pass Stephen's Bench and Derrybeg Bridge before the trail opens on to the southern shore of Lough Corrib for your final run that takes you into Oughterard.
Sights & sounds
The mix of the sea fjord, mountains, rivers and lakelands make this very much a 'best of' in terms of Connemara's rich topography, so be sure to stop and take it in.
At Killary Fjord, keep an eye out for gannets fishing over the waters. These incredible ocean birds fly remarkably high before harpooning themselves into the water at tremendous speed. White tailed eagles have been spotted in these parts. Ravens, peregrines, merlins and kestrels are also prevalent, while curlews, snipe and plovers are more often heard than seen, especially in summer months. Smaller birds like stonechats, meadow pipits and skylarks should accompany you along the whole journey.
Rainfall is not uncommon so be very prepared. The trail is moderate-grade difficulty, with roughly 40% asphalt and 60% loose, rugged off-road. See thewesternway.ie for any updates or closures to sections. Accommodation is available but limited along the route.
Please respect livestock and wildlife; dogs are not permitted on the trails.